2). Forever Improve the Soil (aerate, fertilize, top dress with organic materials, water routinely, avoid compaction, ensure proper drainage, etc.)
3). Plant Premium Site-Specific Grass Seed (the best seed blends will include 0% WEED SEEDS and 0% NOXIOUS WEED SEEDS)
4). Apply Selective Broadleaf and Grassy Weed Control Herbicides in a Targeted Manner (adjusted seasonally – as/if needed)
The overall health of your lawn (and soil) is critical to your long term weed control success. The healthier and denser the stand of turfgrass, the less open soil will exist for an opportunistic weed seed to grow.
Please contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any questions you may have or to schedule a meeting at your property to discuss any/all future lawn improvements needed.
Thank you for visiting our site and we look forward to being of service to you. Have a great day!
When walking through shady areas, mainly on older, more mature landscapes, I occasionally notice a very special low-growing perennial that has a tendency to sneak it’s way around a plant bed, even spreading well into adjacent lawn areas.
The persistent perennial I speak of is called liriope (aka Monkey Grass, Lilyturf or Border Grass).
What makes liriope so special is even though it is very small in size, it is very difficult to completely remove and has a tendency to spread (variety dependent). Complete physical removal usually takes multiple tries, over several years. Even non-selective liquid herbicides like glyphosate may only be partially effective due to the plants tuberous root system.
IT IS VERY COMMON TO FIND LIRIOPE GROWING IN NEW LAWN AREAS THAT WERE ONCE PLANT BEDS!
The moral of my story is this, start removing liriope early. Begin digging out your unwanted liriope plants now to eventually reclaim precious planting bed space or to clear the way for a new lawn.
Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any questions you may have or if we can be of service to you. Thank’s for visiting our site and have a great day!
The first cool-season lawn areas to show signs of heat related stress will likely consist of Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue grass plant varieties. Lawn areas that are not routinely watered, experience full-sun exposure or are found growing atop shallow heat-retaining objects (sewers, utilities, compacted materials, etc.) or alongside curbs, sewer covers, sign posts, etc. will go dormant first when temperatures hold in the mid-to-upper 90’s and moisture is non-existent.
In most cases, as cooler temperatures return and routine rainfall becomes the norm, your lawn will awaken from it’s dormancy and return to it’s beautiful self all on it’s own and without any additional help. However, depending on the total duration and severity of the heat/drought experienced, season-end lawn repairs by seed may be needed to rebuild any/all lost lawn density.
Here are a few seasonal lawn care tips to remember when we experience severe heat and dry conditions
Try to keep foot, bicycle or vehicle traffic across all heat effected lawn areas to a bare minimum.
Water regularly all season long to ensure dormant-prone grass plant varieties thrive and survive.
If a routine watering program is not possible for any reason, do not begin to water your lawn sporadically after your lawn has already gone dormant. Just let your lawn come out of dormancy on it’s own, over time and as cooler weather and routine rainfall allows.
Mow lawn high (3.5″+/-) all season long for best overall grass plant health and to encourage critical root development.
Core aerate lawn every fall to relieve soil compaction and allow for improved air/nutrient/water flow to your lawns root zone.
Incorporate the planting of drought-tolerant cool season grass varieties into your seasonal lawn improvement program.
Please be sure to let our team at Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. know if we we can be of help or answer any questions you may have. Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!
Slit-seeding is the mechanical process of planting premium site-specific grass seed through an existing stand of turfgrass, directly into the soil.
Unlike general over-seeding where a spreader is normally used to simply broadcast seed over a lawn (hoping grass seed will eventually reach soil to begin the germination process), mechanical slit-seeding ensures critical seed-to-soil contact by slicing through the lawn and planting the seed directly into the soil. Mechanical slit-seeding is best performed in late summer/early fall, but can be completed in the spring as long as NO crabgrass prevention herbicides are used (pre/post slit-seeding). For even better results, core aerate the targeted lawn areas before slit-seeding and apply a granular seed starter fertilizer (high in phosphorus) shortly after. While slit-seeding may not be the most efficient or cost-effective way to plant an entirely new lawn from bare soil, the process really excels when rebuilding an existing lawn that has declined from such issues as disease, heavy physical use, drought, etc..
Mechanical slit-seeding provides excellent seed germination rates and should be incorporated into any professional long-term lawn improvement program.
Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any lawn care or mechanical slit-seeding questions you may have. Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!
Nimblewill is a warm season perennial grass that has a tendency to grow in patches and is occasionally found growing in poorly drained soil and lightly shaded lawn areas. Nimblewill is considered a weed grass and is never planted on purpose. Nimblewill can spread by seed and/or by it’s lightly rooted spreading stems (stolons).
You can easily notice a lawn that has nimblewill growing in it during the early spring and late fall months (in particular). Once cooler temperatures and first frost occurs, nimblewill will die back to the ground and change from it’s normal bluish/green summer color to a straw-like tan color.
Once identified and only when the target plant is actively growing (May thru August), nimblewill can be completely eliminated by spot applying a selective or non-selective herbicide. Shortly after the treated nimblewill areas have completely died back (14 to 21 days post non-selective herbicide application), any/all necessary steps can be taken to complete the final lawn repairs needed (additional top soil, grass seed, etc.).
When we hear the word rust we usually think of deteriorating steel or iron somewhere in our local surroundings. However, you may be interested to learn more about a common lawn disease that shares the same name. Whether it be the tell-tale sign of your shoes turning orange when walking across the lawn or the lawn taking on a semi-faded orange color, your lawn is likely dealing with this common late summer fungal related disease called lawn rust.
Here are a few lawn rust specifics for your review.
Shoes become orange colored when walking across the lawn (orange/brown/rust colored powder sticks to shoes)
Lawn takes on a temporary rusty color (entirely or in patches)
Usually found during late summer/early fall season
Very common when lawn has gone dormant (partially or fully)
Disease very likely when high humidity AND high temperatures are the norm
In severe cases, rust disease may thin overall lawn (although not very common). Plant premium site-specific grass seed to rebuild lost density as needed.
Core aerate and/or mechanically power rake all lawn areas to break down/remove problematic excess thatch
Perform infrequent watering and continue lawn fertilization (nitrogen in particular) to speed recovery
As always, please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. for any lawn, landscape or snow removal services needed at your property. Thank you for taking the time to visit our site and have a great day!
With the abundance of rain we have enjoyed over the past few months, you may have noticed a few odd looking circular shaped dark green colored rings (3′ to 10′ +/- in diameter) located across your lawn. If so, you are not alone. In all likelihood, the saturated soil below your lawn has initiated a very common fungal based disease called Fairy Ring.
The first signs of Fairy Ring disease are usually the appearance of dark green colored circles, arcs and/or mushrooms across the lawn’s surface. Of course, the mushrooms are a reliable sign that an abundance of buried decaying organic material is in the soil (old tree roots, stumps, etc.). As the fungi break down the excess organic matter in the soil nitrogen is produced giving the lawn located just above/around a healthy dark green color and a decent growth spurt (beyond surrounding non-affected lawn areas).
If Fairy Ring effected lawn areas prove to be seasonally persistent at your property and grass fails to grow/survive, then you may want to consider removing a 6″-10″ layer of soil located just below the plagued lawn areas, add clean topsoil and plant premium grass seed to repair the specific areas. There is no guarantee this soil replacement approach will be 100% effective, but may be worth the investment over the long term if your lawn continues to struggle.
In most cases, just by power raking (mechanical dethatching) the entire lawn in the spring, mowing frequently and providing routine lawn fertilization will increase the vigor/growth rate of the entire lawn and adequately conceal most Fairy Ring outbreaks that may occur over the course of a growing season.
Now that the snow has finally melted and warmer temperatures are upon us, many lawns are showing signs of a common fungal disease called snow mold (gray snow mold in particular). Snow mold occurs when spring conditions allow warm unfrozen ground that was recently covered by melting snow to activate an existing pathogen. The issues start when a pathogen is present, spring temperatures are between 30-40 F and the soil/turfgrass is fairly saturated. Snow mold may be found in lawn areas where drainage and air-movement is poor and especially where snow has been piled and/or is slow to melt. Damage can be as minimal as just a few small circular shaped yellow/matted down lawn areas or more widespread (conditions dependent). As the lawn dries and warmer weather moves in the disease becomes dormant until the next opportunity arises (late fall/early spring). Damaged lawn areas should be repaired by first raking the problematic areas (very important), add a light layer of topsoil (as/if needed), plant a premium disease resistant grass seed blend and finally cover the repaired lawn areas with a light layer of peat moss to complete. After the lawn repairs have been completed and soil temperatures warm beyond 50 F your lawn will rebuild its lost density and look as if a problem never existed.
As winter ends and spring finally starts, many property owners will have their lawn’s core aerated. Core aeration is the mechanical process of repeatedly penetrating the lawn/soil with a machine that removes a great many soil cores (1/2″ diameter x 2″-4″ deep) to further improve air, water and nutrient flow to the lawn’s root system. Core aeration is great for relieving soil compaction and improving grass seed germination rates (when overseeding – pre or post aeration). Even though core aeration is quite beneficial for your lawn’s health, the mechanical process itself can be very detrimental to any/all shallow (< 6″) unmarked underground utilities that are not avoided.
Here are a few of the most common underground “non-exposed” utilities that must be marked, flagged and/or mapped before core aerating your lawn.
Sprinkler heads that have been overgrown by grass
Shallow buried internet/tv cable lines
Shallow buried “invisible” pet fencing systems
Shallow buried electrical power lines (non-conduit encased in particular) feeding post lights, pond pumps, etc.
Shallow buried landscape drainage or downspout extension lines
Grass covered landscape drain outlets, grates, pop-up emitters, etc.
Lawn covered access covers for underground flood control systems
Shallow buried low voltage wiring (landscape lighting, holiday decorations, irrigation system sensors, etc.)
Please remember, if the operator controlling the core aerator cannot see an obstacle across the lawn or has not been informed of it’s shallow underground existence, there is a very good chance that the steel tines below the core aerator will contact, break or severe the hidden buried object.