3 Proven Ways to Increase Commercial Snow Removal Quality and Reliability!

After spending the last 25 years in the business of commercial snow removal, even to this day, we continue to learn and find new ways to tweak our operational techniques and further improve the level of service we provide for our clients.  Here are 3 readily available resources that if used, will help a snow removal contractor increase efficiency, improve quality and ideally, stay a few steps ahead of the storm.

1). Skid-Steer Loader: Very reliable, extra maneuverable and can clear a lot of snow in a hurry! Regardless of the brand of skid-steer  (Bobcat, Cat, New Holland, etc.), these machines run on either wheels or tracks and can quickly attach to just about any snow removal attachment ever created (universal attachment mounting plate used across all manufacturer’s machines).  Couple a sectional containment plow/snow pusher (8′ to 12′ wide) to a highly maneuverable piece of equipment like a skid-steer loader and you have a winning combination for just about any snow clearing operation!

 

2). Industrial Snow Pusher Shovel:  Simple, durable and excellent scraping ability.  These “Snow Plow/Snow Pusher” shovels are constructed almost entirely of polyethylene/fiberglass and perform flawlessly!  With only a minimal initial investment ($25-$80 each), these snow shovels come in a variety of sizes ranging from 12″ to 48″ wide and can be easily refurbished (if ever needed) with parts available direct from the manufacturer.  These shovels are especially great for clearing snow from somewhat delicate surfaces that are prone to scratching and damage from normal steel edged snow shovels (wood decks, brick pavement, stone, outdoor carpet, stamped concrete, etc.).

3). Mobile Storage Containers:  Large or small sizes readily available, own or rent, super secure and can be delivered just about anywhere.These strategically placed, on-site, all steel containers have truly revolutionized the way ice melt materials (bagged and bulk) and snow removal equipment can be stored, secured and maintained to achieve a constant state of readiness.

Please be sure to contact our team at Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any snow and ice management service need you may have.  We remain ready and able to assist any way we can.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

So what are you anyway ………….. a contractor or a mechanic?

My answer is BOTH!  Well, sort of anyway.

Being a contractor in the landscape and snow industry means you have the honor of working with fantastic people, spend your days in the great outdoors and are surrounded by, and rely heavily on equipment.  Whether complex vehicles or simple machines, the need for work producing equipment in the contracting industry is just about mandatory.

In my opinion, an aspiring contractor today must strive to continually learn (at the very least) the “inner-workings” of the various pieces of equipment used daily so that a reliable and cost-effective service can be consistently delivered to it’s customer.

If you happen to be interested in how plants grow and keeping machinery in great running condition, take a look at the landscape and snow management industry as a career.

You will never have a dull work day ever again!

Thank you for visiting our site and as always, please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. for all your lawn, landscape and snow management needs.  Have a great day!

Ideas to relieve standing water from your lawn and landscape

If proper site drainage is lacking at your property and continuous rains routinely cause the ground to become fully saturated, standing water will almost certainly occur.

Especially across low lying lawn and poorly drained plant bed areas, if surface water is left to stagnate for long periods of time, non-tolerant plants may fall victim to the negative effects of excessive soil moisture (root decay/wet-feet).

Here are a few ways to relieve standing water at your property.

  • Redirect existing roof downspouts and/or sump pump outlet pipes to flow toward alternate non-problematic areas (if possible).
  • Raise the soil grade within low-lying flood prone areas.
  • Install an underground drainage system to properly relocate, store and/or further improve the natural process of ground water percolation.
  • Replace impermeable paved surfaces with porous materials.
  • Fine tune your irrigation system to prevent over watering (soil type and natural rainfall frequency dependent).
  • If you suspect a neighboring property is the direct cause of your drainage problem, begin a direct discussion with it’s owner and/or the local government to find a beneficial solution.
  • If poor drainage cannot be improved for whatever reason, consider planting species that can tolerate wet soil conditions.

Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any questions you may have.  We greatly appreciate your time and look forward to being of assistance to you in the very near future.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

A tree that has no equal – the majestic Bur Oak!

Bur Oak Deeply Furrowed Bark

There is one very special oak tree that I just love seeing in my day-to-day travels, the Bur oak.

Wow…. what a beautiful and majestic tree!

The Bur oak is from the white oak family of hard wood trees and can live well over 200 years.  It’s bark is deeply furrowed and acorns sport a very unique hairy cap.

When you find a Bur oak acorn on the ground, look up.  Take a look at one of the most beautiful oak trees you will find in our area.  Young, smaller sized wild growing Bur oak trees are difficult to transplant due to their very substantial tap root, but if you can wait a few years and have a few viable acorns you can plant your very own oak tree from seed.

The tree can grow well over 70 feet tall and is ideally suited to grow in a vast open area.  However, with that said, we have a few clients that have several very substantial Bur oak’s that are happily growing right alongside their homes and driveways.  Whether the trees came before the house or the house before the trees, I don’t know, but what I do know is that their landscapes are truly one-of-a-kind.

In my opinion, these substantial trees add so much character to a landscape that their is simply no comparison. If you are fortunate enough to have towering mature Bur oaks growing on your property, consider yourself very lucky.  Besides having to clean up occasional acorns and an abundance of leaves in the fall you will find no better shade tree.  If you have the foresight and space available on your property, be sure to look into planting your very own Bur oak tree.  Your kids and grandchildren will be very grateful you did.

Bur Oak Acorns

Please be sure to consider Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. for your lawn, landscape and snow management needs.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

How to Identify an Oak Tree

The first step to begin identification of an oak tree is to determine whether the tree is from the white or red oak family of trees.  You can identify which group your oak tree belongs to by looking at it’s leaves, acorns and it’s bark.

Red Oak Group Characteristics:

  • Leaves have pointed tips
  • Acorns are round in shape and have a flattened overlapping/scaled cap
  • Bark is fairly dark in color and often appears as ridged/furrowed
  • Fast growing
  • Members of the red oak group of trees include – Northern red oak, Black oak, Pin oak, Shingle oak, Red oak, etc.
Red Oak Tree Leaves and Acorns
Red Oak Tree Bark
Red Oak Tree Acorns

White Oak Group Characteristics:

  • Leaves are rounded at tip of each lobe
  • Acorns are oval/elongated and have a bumpy faced cap that is usually 1/3 or so it’s overall length
  • Bark often appears to be light colored and scaly in appearance
  • Slow growing
  • Members of the white oak group of trees include – Bur oak, Post oak, Swamp White oak, Eastern White oak, etc.
White Oak Tree Leaves and Acorns
White Oak Tree Bark
White Oak Tree Acorns

Oak trees are fantastic hardwood trees that can live for hundreds of years and provide awesome shade for all to enjoy.  Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any comments, questions or service requests you may have.  We greatly appreciate your visit to our site and look forward to being of service to you.  Have a great day!

Natures Oddity…………. Slime Mold!

Slime mold can be found growing atop organic decaying material (wood mulch in particular) when hot and humid weather is the norm (June – August).

Slime mold can be white, light cream, brown or even yellow in color.

When found growing atop wood mulch, slime mold can be easily removed by just scooping it up and throwing it away.

 

 

Try not to dispose of slime mold in your compost bin to avoid further possible on-site spread.  Normal routine cultivation of wood mulch will keep slime mold growth at bay.  Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any lawn, landscape or snow management related questions you may have.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

It’s much too hot and way too dry…….. will my lawn be ok?

The first cool-season lawn areas to show signs of heat related stress will likely consist of Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue grass plant varieties.  Lawn areas that are not routinely watered, experience full-sun exposure or are found growing atop shallow heat-retaining objects (sewers, utilities, compacted materials, etc.) or alongside curbs, sewer covers, sign posts, etc. will go dormant first when temperatures hold in the mid-to-upper 90’s and moisture is non-existent.

In most cases, as cooler temperatures return and routine rainfall becomes the norm, your lawn will awaken from it’s dormancy and return to it’s beautiful self all on it’s own and without any additional help.  However, depending on the total duration and severity of the heat/drought experienced, season-end lawn repairs by seed may be needed to rebuild any/all lost lawn density.

Here are a few seasonal lawn care tips to remember when we experience severe heat and dry conditions

  • Try to keep foot, bicycle or vehicle traffic across all heat effected lawn areas to a bare minimum.
  • Water regularly all season long to ensure dormant-prone grass plant varieties thrive and survive.
  • If a routine watering program is not possible for any reason, do not begin to water your lawn sporadically after your lawn has already gone dormant.  Just let your lawn come out of dormancy on it’s own, over time and as cooler weather and routine rainfall allows.
  •  Mow lawn high (3.5″+/-) all season long for best overall grass plant health and to encourage critical root development.
  • Core aerate lawn every fall to relieve soil compaction and allow for improved air/nutrient/water flow to your lawns root zone.
  • Incorporate the planting of drought-tolerant cool season grass varieties into your seasonal lawn improvement program.

Please be sure to let our team at Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. know if we we can be of help or answer any questions you may have.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

Weeds are growing in my newly seeded lawn …….. what to do?

When planting a new lawn from seed (in particular), soil is normally added, amended, cultivated and/or aerated to provide optimum seed-growing conditions.  Lightly cultivated soil is critical for new grass seed germination and eventual plant/root development, but also happens to be the “open door” needed for any/all competing nearby weed seed to flourish.

Here are a few precautions that can be taken to lessen the possibility of unwanted weed growth within your improved soil/new lawn area.

1). If attempting to grow grass within an area that already has a large population of weeds (broadleaf, grassy or grass-like weeds) consider applying a selective or non-selective herbicide to all unwanted growing vegetation a few weeks before soil preparation/seed planting takes place to completely eliminate the problematic weeds found (roots and all).

2). Plant grass seed in late summer/early fall to avoid increased spring season weed seed competition.

3). Use a premium blend of site-specific grass seed that contains 0% weed/noxious weed seed.

4). Consider mechanical slit-seeding (when existing site and soil conditions allow) to plant new grass seed directly into the soil through an existing stand of turf grass.

5). When planting grass seed in large lightly cultivated soil areas, consider covering all newly planted areas with seed germination blanket to lessen the exposure to wind-blown weed seed, feeding birds, etc..

If all precautions were taken, but a few problematic broadleaf weeds still happened to grow within your newly seeded areas, no problem at all.  Here are a few simple steps that can be taken to eradicate the unwanted weeds found growing in your prized new lawn.  If a small area, just manually pull any/all weeds found as they appear.  If a larger area, spot treat the visible broadleaf weed foliage with a selective liquid herbicide to completely eliminate the weed (root and all).  As lawn density builds over time, weed competition will become less problematic due to less bare soil exposure.

Just remember, planting or repairing a lawn from seed is not a quick proposition and without it’s fair share of short term challenges (maintenance, irrigation, environmental conditions, etc.).  However, it is our continued opinion that planting a site specific lawn from premium disease resistant grass seed is the very best way to grow a healthy stand of turf grass that will eventually prove worth the wait.  Please consider Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. for your next lawn improvement project.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

Mechanical Slit-Seeding = Best Way to Rebuild a Thinning Lawn

Slit-seeding is the mechanical process of planting premium site-specific grass seed through an existing stand of turfgrass, directly into the soil.

Unlike general over-seeding where a spreader is normally used to simply broadcast seed over a lawn (hoping grass seed will eventually reach soil to begin the germination process), mechanical slit-seeding ensures critical seed-to-soil contact by slicing through the lawn and planting the seed directly into the soil.  Mechanical slit-seeding is best performed in late summer/early fall, but can be completed in the spring as long as NO crabgrass prevention herbicides are used (pre/post slit-seeding).  For even better results, core aerate the targeted lawn areas before slit-seeding and apply a granular seed starter fertilizer (high in phosphorus) shortly after.  While slit-seeding may not be the most efficient or cost-effective way to plant an entirely new lawn from bare soil, the process really excels when rebuilding an existing lawn that has declined from such issues as disease, heavy physical use, drought, etc..

Mechanical slit-seeding provides excellent seed germination rates and should be incorporated into any professional long-term lawn improvement program.

Please be sure to contact Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc. with any lawn care or mechanical slit-seeding questions you may have.  Thank you for visiting our site and have a great day!

Since 1993, Pacocha Landscaping Services, Inc., building long-term satisfied client relationships, one important detail at a time!

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